[One To Watch Out For] Juun J. A/W 2009/2010

Now, don't you sniff around
For something fluffy and light
I need a man who brings
A man-size... Appetite ... from Hairspray

Our continued obsession with volume and size, can be seen from the ever controversial size zero debate and to the rise of oversized clothing for men. This obsession for oversized clothing could be due to the need of warmth and cover for winter. Or maybe men are concerned with hiding imperfections, much like their female counterparts. Whatever the reason, fashion has seen this need and designers are constructing for that demand. Juun J, a Korean designer has built parts of his collection for A/W 2009 on this concept. Giving it a technical, retro, Japanese edge combined with a European sensibility. His interpretations on winter classics such as trench coats and blazers are designed with a feminine sleek silhouette for men. Trench coats are widened and heightened giving them volume and designed in variation of colours from navy blue to grey. They convey a sober and calm tone, the trench coats were also designed as ponchos, but he refined the Ugly Betty silhouette as they were double breasted. Jackets looked as if they were dipped in the ocean and left dripping for you to wear. The wet look was enhanced with a glossy and patent feel. Jackets came in a myriad of silhouettes from oversided poncho-esque glossy blue puffer jackets to shiny windbreakers. Necklines and collars were elongated and the turtle neck was added to jackets, coats and jumpers. Shirts also were sewed together with scarves that could be used as hoodies or resembling the construction of the Middle Eastern Abaya. His creation of trousers involved making them high- waisted with a cumber band structure; they were baggy and tailored with relaxed pleats. Juun J also cinches the waist with his trademark use of belts. I admire his colour palette; the colours are sombre opting for brown, grey, black, military green and bronze with a matte finish. This mix evokes an Andrex softness that is playful and cool. Juun began his career in fashion after carrying out his military service, which is obligatory for South Korean men. This very apparent in his collection, incorporated with his love of street futurism and a bit of origami. I am in awe of his collection and admire his versatility and combinations of classics such as plaid shirts with a 21 century cut. His work can be simply put as defined and elaborate.

[What You Think]

Naomi Campbell for Flaunt taken by Dave LaChapelle

[One To Watch Out For] Undercover A/W 2009/2010

"All these constructions and the laws connecting them can be arrived at by the principle of looking for the mathematically simplest concepts and the link between them."- Albert Einstein

You have got love winter, it’s a perfect excuse to hide and hibernate away from the world. It’s a chance to wear thick fabrics, dark colours and not give two monkeys about what you’re wearing. But with emerging designers like Jun Takahashi, its does however prove that the anti-fashion appeal of winter could be quite fashionable. With his new Menswear collection for Undercover A/W 2009, he puts a stylish spin on function. Stylish being quite technical and scientific. He utilises fabrics used at NASA,one of the fabrics used traps body heat when the wearer is indoors and expels it when the wearer moves away to a colder environment. Describing the fabric itself seems quite formulaic resembling the rules of a scientific theory; he definitely listened to his Physics tutor. Takahashi’s silhouette for the collection range from capes to puffer jackets. The capes were made of thick wool in autumnal rustic orange dégradé blends, grey, blue and black. The capes conveyed a mix of Sherlock Holmes and Batman, it’s as if you could fly, ski and raid a bank at the same time with the neck balaclavas. Knits were constructed into long jumpers and sleeves on long sleeve full length double breasted coats. Wool was manipulated into an array of pieces and detailing, proving that Takahashi’s design approach focused on construction and development of his pieces. Takahashi also embraced the winter trend of “Sports Chic”. Adding tight figure hugging joggers that could look amazing on a perfectly plump exercised bubble- like gluteus maximus.Chavs would be caught dead in a pair of these joggers, but after seeing this collection I see why Chavs love wearing a pair of joggers, comfort, softness and warmth.Takahashi adds a pinch of rock’n’roll with a biker jacket in a shocking blue with shoulder zips and pocket zips. Shoes resembled ski boots turned into high tops with thick wool padding and Velcro strapping. Ugg boots with gladiator sandal strapping, basically. The collection combined Tokyo street style, ski chic and rock’n’roll into a techno avant garde soberness. What this collection has is innovation and intelligence; I hope to see more from him as he transforms menswear.

The Male Supermodel

David Gandy


A.J Abualrub

The male supermodel has crash landed into the fashion industry and its here to stay. For years the supermodel has been associated with women and men have been pushed away from the spotlight. But with the growth of the menswear industry and men’s fashion magazine, it was only a matter of time until they arrived. They are the epitome of masculinity, they ooze sexuality that women are easily leech on and which men are envious of. Designers Domenico and Stefano (Dolce and Gabbana) have noticed the influence these men wield on fashion and they have given them a platform to shine, models such as David Gandy, Tyson Ballou and Noah Mills all were nurtured at the D&G stable. You’ve probably seen them flaunting their super chillesed physique in the new D&G Anthology perfume ad near super-goddesses such as Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer. But these guys are a breed of the old world masculinity ideal. There’s another batch of models that provide an alternative 21 century ideal of the male physique, it’s childlike, slim and lean. They have a flexibility ranging from conceptual, indie to grunge looks. These guys are AJ Abualrub, Ash Stymest and Josh Beech. However, these guys are the oranges among apples, male models don’t garner the same earning power as they female counterparts, they live lifestyles similar to those near the breadline, but these guys are gaining similar recognition and money as female models. But it will be time before Topman collaborates with David Gandy for a collection.


Sean O'Pry


Josh Beech


Tyson Ballou





Will Chalker

[Men] Velour and Velvet Trend

Playboy isn`t like the downscale, male bonding, beer-swilling phenomena that is being promoted now by (some men`s magazines). My whole notion was the romantic connection between male and female – Hugh Hefner

For years Velour has been associated with girls in velour hoodies, trackies and a Chihuahua. This gave the fabric a bad reputation making it seem cheap and trashy. So, soon people ran away from it, leaving it for chavs and Malibu bimbos. But for A/W 2009, it has been reinvented into a plush luxe fabric that is associated with luxury and comfort. Designers such as Dolce and Gabbana, constructed velour blazers and coats evoking a Hugh Hefner-esque touch. Velvet was not left behind, with Roberto Cavalli creating striking vibrant colour jackets. You have to love the softness of the fabric, creating a snug feeling amongst the cold of winter.

(First two both by Roberto Cavalli,Versace,Alessandro Dell Acqua,Dolce and Gabbana,D & G,Ermenegildo Zegna,Dolce and Gabbana,Salvatore Ferragamo,Z Zegna,both from Bottega Veneta,Dolce and Gabbana and Armani)